Xov Xwm thiab Xov Xwm

Sid Vicious yuav tsis ntseeg tias nws cov khaub ncaws qub muaj nqis npaum li cas thiab cov neeg dag ntxias yuav mus ntev ntev los dag lawv.
Tsis ntev tas los no, London-based pop culture historian Paul Gorman, tus sau Lub Neej thiab Lub Sijhawm ntawm Malcolm McLaren: Biography, thiab Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman tau txais ib daim ntawm Marr.Lub tsho los ntawm Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries daim ntawv lo, circa 1977, rau kev ntsuam xyuas.
Nws yog tsim los ntawm muslin thiab nta cov duab pom tau sai sai los ntawm tus kws kos duab Jamie Reid rau lub tes tsho ntawm Sex Pistols '"Anarchy hauv UK" ib leeg.
Yog tias nws muaj tseeb, nws yuav tau txais tus nqi zoo nkauj ntawm kev sib tw.Thaum kev sib tw Bonhams thaum lub Tsib Hlis, xyoo 1977 Mr. McLaren thiab Ms. Westwood parachute tsho tau muag rau $ 6,660, nrog rau ib qho tsis tshua muaj xim dub thiab liab mohair sweater embroidered nrog pob txha taub hau thiab crossbones thiab "Sex Pistols" Tsis Muaj Yav Tom Ntej "Lyrics" muag rau $ 8,896.
Txawm li cas los xij, Mr Gorman tsis ntseeg tias lub tsho nws tau ntsuas yog qhov tus tswv tau thov.
Yawg Gorman tau hais tias "Muslim tsis siv nyob rau qee qhov chaw," Tab sis lwm qhov, cov ntaub tseem tshiab dhau lawm.Tus cwj mem tsis yog xyoo 1970 zoo thiab tsis tau nthuav dav rau hauv cov ntaub. "Nug txog qhov pov thawj, tus neeg muag khoom tau thim qhov khoom los ntawm lub tsev muag khoom thiab hais tias nws tau muab muag rau tus kheej. "Tsuas muaj ib lub tsho zoo sib xws hauv lub tsev khaws khoom khaws cia," Gorman hais tias, "thiab kuv xav tias muaj lus nug thiab."
Zoo siab txais tos rau lub ntiaj teb no txawv txawv thiab muaj txiaj ntsig ntawm fake punk.Tshaj 30 xyoo dhau los, ua txuj ua tes xuas tes ua nrog cov qauv qub suav nrog S-thiab-M thiab cov duab qias neeg, kev txiav tshiab thiab cov hlua, cov qauv tub rog tshaj tawm, tweeds thiab latex - Sid Vicious thiab nws cov phooj ywg nyob rau hauv Anarchy Dab tsi ua nto moo nyob rau hauv lub era ntawm ideology - tau dhau los ua kev lag luam loj hlob.
Steven Philip, tus kws sau ntawv zam, sau ntawv thiab tus kws pab tswv yim hais tias "Kuv tau txais ob peb email txhua lub hlis nug yog tias muaj dab tsi tiag tiag," Kuv yuav tsis koom nrog.Cov neeg yuav cov neeg ruam cov kub.Muaj ib txwm muaj 500 fakes rau ib tug tiag tiag. "
Tau ib nrab xyoo pua, Mr McLaren thiab Ms Westwood tau qhib lawv lub khw muag khoom lag luam, Cia Nws Rock, ntawm 430 King's Road, London.Lub khw, tam sim no hu ua Worlds End, yog qhov chaw yug ntawm txoj kev zam.Nws cov tswv yog cov neeg tsim qauv uas txhais lub punk scene.
Tshaj li 10 xyoo tom ntej, lub khw tau hloov pauv mus rau Kev Sib Deev thiab Kev Sib Tham, qhia txog qhov zoo thiab lub suab uas muaj qhov cuam tshuam loj heev thiab yog li ntawd tau sau tseg. "Cov khoom ib leeg yog tsawg heev vim muaj ntau yam, "hais tias Alexander Fury, tus sau ntawm "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "Lawv lub sijhawm tsim khoom luv luv, cov khaub ncaws kim, thiab tib neeg nyiam yuav thiab hnav lawv kom txog thaum lawv poob."
Dior thiab Fendi tus thawj coj ua yeeb yam, Kim Jones, muaj ntau cov haujlwm qub thiab ntseeg tias "Westwood thiab McLaren tsim cov qauv qauv rau cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub.Lawv yog cov neeg pom kev, ”nws hais.
Ntau lub tsev khaws puav pheej tseem khaws cov khoom no.Michael Costiff, socialite, tus tsim sab hauv thiab tus saib xyuas ntawm Lub Ntiaj Teb Archives rau Dover Street Market Stores, yog tus neeg siv khoom thaum ntxov ntawm Mr. McLaren thiab Ms. Westwood.Lub 178 outfits nws tau sib sau nrog nws tus poj niam, Gerlinde, Tam sim no nyob rau hauv kev sau ntawm Victoria thiab Albert Tsev khaws puav pheej, uas tau yuav Mr Costiff cov khoom sau hauv 2002 rau £ 42,500 los ntawm National Art Collection Fund.
Tus nqi ntawm vintage McLaren thiab Westwood ua rau lawv lub hom phiaj rau zam pirates.Ntawm qhov pom tseeb tshaj plaws, cov ntawv luam tawm muaj nyob online thiab muag ncaj qha thiab pheej yig, tsis muaj kev dag ntxias - tsuas yog cov duab paub txog ntawm lub tsho yooj yim.
Paul Stolper, tus kws kos duab hauv London uas nws sau ntau ntawm cov thawj punk tej hauj lwm yog tam sim no nyob rau hauv lub Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm kos duab, hais tias "Ib daim duab los yog ob los ntawm ib lub sij hawm, zoo li Che. Guevara los yog Marilyn, xaus mus rau kis los ntawm peb kab lis kev cai.Sex Pistols txhais ib lub sijhawm, yog li cov duab tau raug tsim tawm tas li. "
Tom qab ntawd muaj cov khoom cuav ntau dua, zoo li cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo pheej yig ntawm Loom t-shirt uas muaj lub ntsej muag Mickey Mouse, lossis $ 190 "SEX thawj" kev ua qhev luv luv los ntawm Lub Khw Robot hauv Tokyo uas yooj yim txheeb xyuas tias tsis yog thawj, Vim yog cov ntaub tshiab thiab qhov tseeb tias qhov style no yeej tsis tau ua tiag tiag hauv xyoo 1970s.Lub lag luam Nyij Pooj yog dej nyab nrog fakes.
Xyoo tas los, Mr Gorman pom ib lub ris tsho hu ua "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' Dawb T-Shirt" ntawm eBay hauv UK, uas nws yuav yog ib qho kev kawm rau £ 100 (kwv yees $ 139).
Nws hais tias "Nws yog ib qho piv txwv nthuav txog kev dag," nws hais. "Nws yeej tsis muaj.Tab sis qhov sib ntxiv ntawm 'Kev puas tsuaj' cov lus hais thiab qhov kev tawm tsam ntawm kev sim siv cov duab kos duab uas nyiam tshaj plaws uas tau piav qhia hauv kev coj ua kev coj noj coj ua tau coj txoj hauv kev ntawm McLaren thiab Westwood.Kuv siv cov kws tshaj lij Cov tshuab luam ntawv tau lees paub tias cov inks yog niaj hnub, ib yam li T-shirt stitching. "
Yawg McLaren tus poj ntsuam, Young Kim, tau ua haujlwm ntau xyoo los khaws nws cov keeb kwm thiab keeb kwm yav dhau los. "Kuv tau mus rau Lub Tsev khaws puav pheej hauv Metropolitan xyoo 2013 los tshuaj xyuas lawv cov khoom sau," Ms. King hais. "Kuv xav tsis thoob thaum pom tias feem ntau ntawm lawv yog cuav.Cov khaub ncaws qub me me.Malcolm ua rau lawv haum nws thiab Vivienne.Ntau cov khaub ncaws ntawm Met tau loj heev thiab haum rau pre-punks niaj hnub no. "
Muaj lwm cov cim qhia. "Lawv muaj ib khub ntawm tweed thiab tawv ris, uas tsis tshua muaj thiab muaj tseeb," Ms King hais tias "Lawv tshwm sim muaj ob khub, uas yog cuav.Lub stitching yog nyob rau sab saum toj ntawm lub duav, tsis nyob rau hauv, raws li nws yuav yog nyob rau hauv ib tug zoo-tsim tsoos tsho.Thiab D-ring yog qhov tshiab. "
Kev ua haujlwm hauv Met's 2013 "Punk: Los ntawm Chaos mus rau Haute Couture" nthuav tawm tau txais qee qhov kev xav tom qab Ms. King thiab Mr. Gorman tau tawm tswv yim rau pej xeem txog qhov raug liam tias cuav thiab ntau yam tsis sib xws.
Tab sis muaj cov lus nug txog kev ua haujlwm uas tau nkag mus rau hauv tsev cia puav pheej yim xyoo dhau los. Piv txwv suav nrog cov khaub ncaws ua qhev uas tau nthuav tawm hauv xyoo 2006 "Anglomania" qhia, ntaus nqi rau London-based antiques dealer Simon Easton, thiab vintage Westwood thiab McLaren lub tuam txhab xauj tsev Punk. Pistol Collection, uas muab stylists thiab filmmakers, thiab xyoo 2003, Iraqi Mr. Stone thiab nws tus khub ua lag luam, Gerald Bowey, tsim lub tsev cia puav pheej hauv online.Tam sim no, lub tsev khaws puav pheej tau tso tseg cov suits raws li ib feem ntawm nws sau.
Andrew Bolton, tus thawj saib xyuas ntawm Metropolitan Costume Institute hais tias "Hauv xyoo 2015, ob daim McLaren-Westwood hauv peb cov khoom tau txiav txim siab tias yog cuav," said Andrew Bolton, tus thawj saib xyuas ntawm Metropolitan Costume Institute.Peb txoj kev tshawb fawb hauv cheeb tsam no tseem tab tom ua. "
Yawg Gorman tau xa Mr Bolton ntau tus email uas nws hais tias lwm cov haujlwm hauv koob muaj teeb meem, tab sis Mr Gorman tau hais tias Bolton tsis teb rau nws lawm.Ib tug kws tshaj lij ntawm Lub Tsev Haujlwm Costume tau hais tias cov khoom tau raug tshuaj xyuas los ntawm cov kws tshaj lij ntau dua ib zaug. Bolton tsis kam muab cov lus qhia ntxiv rau tsab xov xwm no.
Yawg Easton, uas yuav tsis tawm tswv yim rau tsab xov xwm no, tau hais los ntawm email tias Mr Bowie tab tom hais lus rau nws, tab sis nws lub npe yog qhov tsis raug rau hauv cov lus dab neeg cuav punk. Tau ntau xyoo, nws qhov chaw PunkPistol.com, uas tau khaws cia hauv 2008, yog raug suav hais tias yog ntau qhov chaw khaws ntaub ntawv txhim khu kev qha rau thawj McLaren thiab Westwood tsim.
Txawm li cas los xij, Mr Bowie tau hais tias txawm tias lawv tau siv zog ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws los lees paub qhov sau, "txoj kev tsis txaus ntseeg uas cov khaub ncaws tau tshwm sim thaum xub thawj, tsim tawm thiab rov tsim dua tshiab tau cuam tshuam nws.Niaj hnub no, txawm tias muaj cov ntawv teev npe muag khoom muag, cov ntawv txais nyiaj thiab qee kis los ntawm Westwood cov ntawv pov thawj, cov khaub ncaws no tseem muaj teeb meem. "
Thaum lub Cuaj Hlis 9, 2008, Mr. McLaren tau raug ceeb toom thawj zaug ntawm qhov ntsuas ntawm qhov kev dag ntxias nyob ib puag ncig nws thiab Ms. Westwood los ntawm email tsis qhia npe xa los ntawm Mr. Gorman rau kab lus no thiab txheeb xyuas los ntawm Ms. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Tom qab cov ntawv ceeb toom, tub ceev xwm tau ntes cov tsev hauv Croydon thiab Eastbourne, qhov chaw uas lawv pom cov ntawv sau ua rau muaj kev kub ntxhov," email hais. "Tab sis leej twg yog tus tshiab pranksters?Zoo siab txais tos Mr Grant Howard thiab Mr Lee Parker. "
Grant Champkins-Howard, tam sim no ib tug DJ nyob rau hauv lub npe Grant Dale, thiab Lee Parker, ib tug kav dej, raug sim ntawm Kingston Crown Tsev Hais Plaub thaum Lub Rau Hli 2010, Tus Kws Txiav Txim Susan Matthews tau hais.Lawv yog "cov laus-fashioned neeg dag".Lawv cov cuab yeej raug raided nyob rau hauv 2008 los ntawm lub Metropolitan Arts thiab Antiquities Fraud Squad thiab txeeb ib tug xa khoom ntawm liam fake McLaren thiab Westwood khaub ncaws thiab lwm yam ntaub ntawv, raws li zoo raws li 120 cuav Banksy prints.
Ob tug tom qab raug pom tias ua txhaum cai ntawm Banksy txoj haujlwm.McLaren, tsuas yog tus tsim ntawm Thawj Tus Poj Niam thiab Seditionaries garments txaus siab los ua tim khawv, tau hais kom kuaj xyuas cov khoom raug ntes thiab taw qhia tias cov khaub ncaws yog cuav: qhov loj me ntawm cov ntawv sau tsis raug, cov ntaub tsis sib xws, siv YKK ntau dua li Lightning branded zippers. , tsis raug cov duab sib dhos thiab dyed qub dawb tee.
King hais tias, "Nws npau taws heev," Nws xav tau kev tiv thaiv thiab tiv thaiv nws txoj haujlwm.Nws muaj nqi heev rau nws. "Tom qab kev sib koom tes ntawm Mr McLaren thiab Ms Westwood tau tawg rau xyoo 1984, muaj kev sib cav ntev ntev ntawm ob qhov kev tsis sib haum xeeb tsis tau daws, thiab qhov kev ntxhov siab tsim lub tshuab nqus tsev rau cov neeg dag.
Yawg Howard thiab Mr Parker tau raug ncua cov kab lus hauv Banks rooj plaub, tab sis cov ntaub ntawv khaub ncaws cuav raug muab tso tseg thaum Mr McLaren tuag hauv xyoo 2010 vim nws yog ib tug tim khawv tseem ceeb rau kev foob hauv cheeb tsam.
Txawm li cas los xij, nws hloov tawm tias Ms Westwood tsev neeg tej zaum yuav tsis tau tsim los yog ua rau muaj kev lag luam punk cuav. "Kuv tau tsim qee cov qauv tsim thaum ntxov los nrhiav nyiaj los tsim tus neeg sawv cev Provocateur," Joe Corré, tus tub ntawm Mr. McLaren thiab Ms. . Westwood, uas qhib nws lub ris tsho hauv qab hauv xyoo 1994 ua lag luam.
"Peb tau tsim cov pob txha qaib T-shirt thiab 'Venus' T-shirt," Mr. Corré tau hais. "Lawv tau sau npe tias yog cov ntawv luam tawm tsawg, ua rau tsawg kawg ntawm 100 daim, thiab tom qab ntawd muag mus rau Nyiv lub khw. ”Ua ntej cov ncauj lus kom ntxaws thiab kim replicas, reproductions ntawm tej hauj lwm raug txwv rau cov pom tseeb silkscreens ntawm cov lag luam wholesale T-shirts Printing, ntau lawm ceev yog ceev, thiab tus nqi yog heev pheej yig.
Mr. Corré tau hais tias Vivienne Westwood tau tso cai luam tawm.McLaren npau taws.Hauv email hnub tim 14 Lub Kaum Hli 2008 rau ib pab pawg suav nrog cov neeg sau xov xwm Steven Daly, Mr McLaren tau sau tias: "Leej twg tso cai rau lawv ua qhov no?Kuv hais kom Joe nres tam sim ntawd thiab sau ntawv rau nws .Kuv npau taws.”
Mr. Corré, uas nyuam qhuav dhau los ua tus thawj coj ntawm Vivienne Foundation, "siv cov cai ntawm nws txoj haujlwm hauv txoj kev muaj siab hlub los nrhiav nyiaj rau ntau yam."Nws tau hais tias nws yuav tshawb nrhiav yuav ua li cas "kawg" kev dag ntxias.Ms King tseem tawm tsam rau Mr McLaren cov keeb kwm thiab ntseeg tias nws tau raug rov ua dua los ntawm nws tus kheej keeb kwm.
Yawg Easton thiab Mr. Bowey lub lag luam punk phom txuas ntxiv muag Ms. Westwood thiab Mr. McLaren txoj haujlwm dhau los ntawm Etsy khw SeditionariesInTheUK, feem ntau ntawm cov ntawv pov thawj los ntawm Vivienne Westwood Company, kos npe, tsim thiab khaws cia los ntawm Murray Blewett. Cov no suav nrog cov tsho striped nrog Peter Pan dab tshos thiab inverted silk Karl Marx thaj ua rau thaj, thiab Levi's-inspired paj rwb-rubber tsho.
Hauv Is Taws Nem tsis nruj npaum li ntau lub tsev muag khoom, thiab lawv yuav tsis tawm tswv yim rau tsab xov xwm no, tab sis hais tias lawv tsuas yog sawv cev ua haujlwm nrog cov ntaub ntawv pov thawj, piv txwv li cov duab ntawm tus tswv hnav khaub ncaws hauv xyoo 1970s.
Mr Gorman tau hais tias "Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom nkag siab tias ntau tus neeg raug tsim txom los ntawm kev dag ntxias yog cov neeg raug tsim txom." "Lawv yeej xav ntseeg tias lawv yog ib feem ntawm zaj dab neeg qub.Qhov ntawd yog dab tsi zam yog txhua yam hais txog, puas yog?Nws yog txhua yam tsav los ntawm kev ntshaw. "