Xov Xwm thiab Xov Xwm

Lub caij no, Turkish zam kev lag luam tau ntsib ntau yam kev sib tw, xws li los ntawm cov teeb meem Covid-19 tsis tu ncua thiab thaj chaw tsis sib haum xeeb hauv cov tebchaws nyob sib ze, mus rau kev cuam tshuam cov saw hlau txuas ntxiv, huab cua txias tsis zoo cuam tshuam txog kev tsim khoom thiab lub teb chaws kev lag luam ntsoog, raws li pom hauv Turkey cov nyiaj txiag. teeb meem raws li UK's Financial Times.Lub Sijhawm tau tshaj tawm tias kev nce nqi nce siab txog 20-xyoo siab ntawm 54% hauv lub Peb Hlis xyoo no.
Txawm hais tias cov teeb meem no, tsim thiab tsim tawm cov txuj ci tsim qauv Turkish tau qhia txog kev ua siab ntev thiab kev cia siab ntawm Istanbul Fashion Week lub caij no, sai sai tau txais kev sib xyaw ntawm cov xwm txheej thiab nthuav tawm cov tswv yim nthuav dav thiab ua pov thawj lawv lub ntiaj teb nyob rau lub caij no.
Kev ua yeeb yam ntawm lub cev ntawm cov chaw keeb kwm xws li Ottoman palace thiab 160-xyoo-laus Crimean lub tsev teev ntuj rov qab los rau lub sijhawm, cuam tshuam nrog kev sib tham digital, nrog rau kev nthuav qhia tshiab, kev sib tham hauv pawg thiab pop-ups ntawm Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Cov koom haum koom nrog - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association lossis İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) thiab Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - tau koom tes nrog Istanbul Soho Lub Tsev los muab cov neeg hauv zos nrog kev soj ntsuam nyob sib ze thiab mus ntsib los ntawm cov tswv cuab hauv kev tshaj tawm xov xwm thoob ntiaj teb. Cov neeg tuaj saib tuaj yeem txuas online los ntawm FWI's Digital Events Center.
Hauv Istanbul, muaj kev nkag siab zoo ntawm lub zog tshiab hauv kev ua haujlwm thiab kev tshuaj xyuas lub cev ua si thaum cov neeg koom nrog koom nrog lawv cov zej zog hauv tib neeg dua hauv cov xwm txheej huab cua.Thaum qee qhov tseem tos tsis tau, qhov kev xav sov so tau kov yeej.
"[Peb] nco ntsoov ua ke," hais tias tus txiv neej hnav khaub ncaws tsim Niyazi Erdoğan.
Hauv qab no, BoF ntsib 10 tus tsim tawm tshiab thiab tsim qauv ntawm lawv lub Limtiam Fashion Week thiab cov xwm txheej kom paub seb lawv cov phiaj xwm thiab cov tswv yim lag luam tau hloov pauv li cas hauv Istanbul lub caij no.
Şansım Adalı tau kawm hauv Brussels ua ntej nrhiav tau Sudi Etuz.Tus tsim qauv, uas yog tus yeej digital-thawj mus kom ze, tab tom tsom ntau dua rau nws txoj kev lag luam digital niaj hnub no thiab txo nws txoj kev lag luam textile.Nws siv cov qauv kev muaj tiag, cov kws kos duab digital thiab cov kws txawj ntse txawj ntse, thiab. raws li NFT capsule collections thiab txwv lub cev khaub ncaws.
Şansım Adalı tuav nws qhov kev nthuav tawm ntawm Crimea Memorial Church nyob ze Galata hauv Istanbul, qhov chaw nws cov qauv tsim digital tau ua qauv ntawm cov avatars thiab nthuav tawm ntawm 8-taw-siab screen.Tom qab poob nws txiv rau Covid-19, nws piav qhia tias nws tseem " tsis xav tias yog" kom muaj coob tus neeg ntawm kev ua yeeb yam ua ke. Xwb, nws siv nws cov qauv digital hauv qhov chaw me me.
"Nws yog ib qho kev sib txawv heev, muaj kev nthuav qhia digital ntawm qhov chaw tsim kho qub," nws hais rau BoF. "Kuv nyiam qhov sib txawv.Txhua leej txhua tus paub txog lub tsev teev ntuj no, tiam sis tsis muaj leej twg mus.Yog li, kuv tsuas yog xav pom cov tub ntxhais hluas sab hauv thiab nco ntsoov tias peb muaj lub tsev zoo nkauj no. "
Cov yeeb yam digital nrog rau kev ua yeeb yam ua yeeb yam, thiab tus neeg hu nkauj hnav ib qho ntawm ob peb lub cev khaub ncaws Adal ua rau hnub no - tab sis feem ntau, Sudi Etuz npaj siab ua kom pom tseeb digital.
"Kuv cov phiaj xwm yav tom ntej tsuas yog ua kom cov khoom lag luam ntawm kuv lub npe me me vim kuv tsis xav tias lub ntiaj teb xav tau lwm lub npe rau kev tsim khoom loj.Kuv tsom mus rau cov haujlwm digital.Kuv muaj ib pab neeg ua haujlwm hauv computer, cov kws kos duab digital thiab pab neeg ua yeeb yam khaub ncaws.Kuv pab neeg tsim yog Gen Z, thiab kuv sim nkag siab lawv, saib lawv, mloog lawv. "
Gökay Gündoğdu tau tsiv mus rau New York los kawm txog kev tswj hwm kev lag luam ua ntej koom nrog Domus Academy hauv Milan hauv 2007.Gündoğdu ua haujlwm hauv ltalis ua ntej tshaj tawm nws cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws TAGG hauv 2014 - Tus cwj pwm Gökay Gündoğdu.Stockists suav nrog Luisa Via Roma thiab nws qhov chaw lag luam e-lag luam, uas pib thaum muaj kev sib kis.
TAGG nthuav tawm cov ntawv sau rau lub caij no nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov khoom pov thawj digitally augmented: "Peb siv QR cov lej thiab ntxiv qhov tseeb los saib cov yeeb yaj kiab nyob tawm ntawm phab ntsa - cov yeeb yaj kiab ntawm cov duab tseem, ib yam li kev ua yeeb yam," Gündoğdu hais rau BoF.
Nws tau hais tias "Kuv tsis yog tus neeg digital," tab sis thaum muaj kev sib kis, "txhua yam peb ua yog digital.Peb ua kom peb lub vev xaib nkag tau yooj yim dua thiab nkag siab yooj yim dua.Peb nyob hauv [kev tswj hwm lag luam wholesale] Joor tau nthuav tawm cov khoom sau rau xyoo 2019 thiab tau txais cov neeg siv khoom tshiab thiab tshiab hauv Asmeskas, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait. "
Txawm hais tias nws ua tiav, kev tsaws TAGG ntawm cov nyiaj thoob ntiaj teb lub caij no tau ua pov thawj nyuaj. "International media thiab buyers ib txwm xav pom ib yam dab tsi los ntawm peb hauv Turkey.Kuv tsis tshua siv cov kab lis kev cai - kuv qhov kev zoo nkauj yog qhov tsawg dua, "nws hais.Tab sis kom rov hais dua rau cov neeg tuaj saib thoob ntiaj teb, Gündodu tau txais kev tshoov siab los ntawm Turkish palaces, ua raws li nws cov architecture thiab sab hauv nrog tib xim, textures thiab silhouettes.
Kev kub ntxhov nyiaj txiag kuj tau cuam tshuam rau nws cov khoom sau rau lub caij no: "Lub Turkish lira poob qis, yog li txhua yam yog kim heev.Importing fabrics los ntawm txawv teb chaws yog tibneeg hu tauj coob.Tsoomfwv hais tias koj yuav tsum tsis txhob thawb kev sib tw ntawm cov chaw tsim khoom txawv teb chaws thiab kev lag luam hauv tebchaws.Koj yuav tsum them se ntxiv rau ntshuam. "Yog li ntawd, cov neeg tsim qauv sib xyaw cov khoom siv hauv zos nrog cov tuaj ntawm Ltalis thiab Fabkis.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer launched nws hom Y Plus, unisex hom, nyob rau hauv 2019 tom qab 30 xyoo nyob rau hauv lub Turkish tsim kev lag luam.Y Plus debuted ntawm London Fashion Week thaum Lub Ob Hlis 2020.
Cov ntawv sau digital ntawm Yakup Bicer Lub Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav / Lub Caij Ntuj Sov 22-23 yog kev tshoov siab los ntawm "tsis qhia npe cov keyboard heroes thiab lawv cov neeg tiv thaiv ntawm crypto-anarchist ideology" thiab xa cov lus ntawm kev tiv thaiv kev ywj pheej ntawm kev nom kev tswv ntawm kev sib raug zoo xov xwm platforms.
"Kuv xav mus txuas ntxiv [qhia] ib pliag," nws hais rau BoF. "Raws li peb tau ua yav dhau los, kev coj cov neeg yuav khoom ua ke thaum lub lim tiam zam yog lub sijhawm siv nyiaj ntau heev thiab hnyav nyiaj txiag.Tam sim no peb tuaj yeem ncav cuag txhua qhov chaw hauv ntiaj teb tib lub sijhawm thaum kov lub pob nrog kev nthuav qhia digital. "
Tshaj li thev naus laus zis, Bicer tab tom siv cov khoom lag luam hauv zos kom kov yeej cov khoom lag luam cuam tshuam - thiab ua li ntawd, cia siab tias yuav xa cov kev coj ua kom ruaj khov dua." Peb tab tom ntsib kev txwv kev mus ncig thiab tam sim no peb tab tom ua tsov rog [hauv cheeb tsam ntiaj teb], yog li cov khoom thauj. qhov teeb meem nws tsim cuam tshuam rau peb kev lag luam tag nrho.[...] Los ntawm kev ua haujlwm nrog kev tsim khoom hauv zos, peb ua kom peb [txoj haujlwm] muaj [ntau] ruaj khov, thiab [peb] txo peb cov pa roj carbon hneev taw. "
Ece thiab Ayse Ege tau tshaj tawm lawv cov npe Dice Kayek hauv xyoo 1992.Yav dhau los ua hauv Paris, lub hom tau koom nrog Fédération Française de la Couture xyoo 1994 thiab tau txais txiaj ntsig Jameel Prize III, ib qho khoom plig thoob ntiaj teb rau kev kawm txuj ci thiab tsim kev tshoov siab los ntawm Islamic kab lis kev cai, hauv 2013.Lub hom tsis ntev los no tau hloov nws lub studio mus rau Istanbul thiab muaj 90 tus neeg muag khoom thoob ntiaj teb.
Dice Kayek cov viv ncaus Ece thiab Ayse Ege tau nthuav tawm lawv cov khoom sau hauv cov yeeb yaj kiab zam lub caij no - hom digital uas lawv tam sim no paub, tau ua yeeb yaj kiab zam txij li xyoo 2013.Qhib thiab rov qab mus rau nws.Nws muaj nqi ntau dua. Hauv 10 lossis 12 xyoos, koj tuaj yeem saib nws dua.Peb nyiam nws ntau yam, "Ece hais rau BoF.
Niaj hnub no, tsuav Kayek muag thoob ntiaj teb hauv Tebchaws Europe, Asmeskas, Middle East thiab Tuam Tshoj. Los ntawm lawv lub khw hauv Paris, lawv sib txawv cov neeg siv khoom hauv khw los ntawm kev siv Turkish kev lis kev cai raws li kev paub txog cov khw muag khoom. "Koj tsis tuaj yeem sib tw nrog cov no. cov npe loj nyob txhua qhov chaw, thiab tsis muaj kev siv los ua qhov ntawd, "said Ayse, uas tau hais tias lub hom phiaj yuav qhib lwm lub khw hauv London xyoo no.
Cov viv ncaus yav dhau los tau khiav lawv txoj kev lag luam los ntawm Paris ua ntej tsiv mus rau Istanbul, qhov chaw uas lawv lub studio txuas nrog Beaumonti's showroom.Dice Kayek tag nrho lawv cov lag luam thiab pom kev tsim khoom tau txais txiaj ntsig ntau dua, "ib yam dab tsi peb ua tsis tau thaum peb tsim tawm hauv lwm lub Hoobkas. ”Nyob rau hauv nqa ntau lawm nyob rau hauv-tsev, cov viv ncaus kuj cia siab rau Turkish craftsmanship yog txhawb thiab tuav nyob rau hauv nws sau.
Niyazi Erdoğan yog tus tsim tsim ntawm Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 thiab Tus Lwm Thawj Coj ntawm Lub Koom Haum Saib Xyuas Kev Ua Yeeb Yam Turkish, thiab tus kws qhia ntawv ntawm Istanbul Fashion Academy. Ntxiv rau cov txiv neej txoj kab, nws nrhiav tau cov khoom siv hom NIYO hauv 2014 thiab yeej European. Tsev khaws puav pheej puav pheej hauv tib lub xyoo.
Niyazi Erdoğan nthuav tawm nws cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws digitally rau lub caij no: "Peb txhua tus tsim digitally tam sim no - peb qhia hauv Metaverse lossis NFTs.Peb muag cov khoom sau ob qho tib si digitally thiab lub cev, mus rau ob qho tib si.Peb xav npaj rau yav tom ntej ntawm ob qho tib si, "nws hais rau BoF.
Txawm li cas los xij, rau lub caij tom ntej, nws hais tias, "Kuv xav tias peb yuav tsum muaj lub cev ua yeeb yam.Zam yog hais txog haiv neeg thiab kev xav, thiab tib neeg nyiam ua ke.Rau cov neeg muaj tswv yim, peb xav tau qhov no. "
Thaum muaj kev sib kis thoob ntiaj teb, lub lag luam tau tsim lub khw hauv online thiab hloov lawv cov khoom sau los ua "muag zoo dua" hauv online, suav nrog kev hloov pauv ntawm cov neeg siv khoom xav tau thaum muaj kev sib kis. muag rau cov poj niam ib yam nkaus, yog li tsis muaj ib thaj tsam. "
Raws li tus kws qhia ntawv ntawm IMA, Erdogan tab tom kawm los ntawm cov tiam tom ntej.“Rau ib tiam neeg zoo li Alpha, yog tias koj nyob hauv kev zam, koj yuav tsum nkag siab lawv.Kuv lub zeem muag yog kom nkag siab txog lawv cov kev xav tau, kom muaj tswv yim txog kev ruaj khov, digital, xim, txiav thiab cov duab - peb yuav tsum ua haujlwm nrog Lawv cuam tshuam. "
Ib tus neeg kawm tiav Istituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker tau ua haujlwm rau cov tuam txhab xws li Frankie Morello, Colmar thiab Furla ua ntej tshaj tawm nws lub npe kos npe rau xyoo 2012, tsim qauv npaj-rau-hnav, nkauj nyab thiab couture collections.Nws tau nthuav tawm hauv London, Paris thiab Milan Fashion Weeks.
Ua kev zoo siab rau lub hom phiaj 10th hnub tseem ceeb rau lub caij no, Nihan Peker tau tuav ib qho kev ua yeeb yam ntawm Çırağan Palace, lub qub Ottoman palace hloov dua siab tshiab los ntawm lub tsev so overlooking Bosphorus. Peker hais rau BoF "Kaum xyoo tom qab, kuv xav tias kuv tuaj yeem ya tau yooj yim dua thiab dhau kuv qhov kev txwv."
"Nws tau siv sijhawm ntev los ua pov thawj kuv tus kheej hauv kuv lub tebchaws," ntxiv Peker, uas zaum pem hauv ntej ntawm lub caij no nrog cov neeg ua yeeb yam Turkish hnav cov qauv tsim los ntawm nws cov khoom sau dhau los.Internationally, "txhua yam mus rau qhov yog," nws hais, nrog kev loj hlob. kev cuam tshuam hauv Middle East.
"Txhua tus neeg tsim qauv Turkish yuav tsum xav txog cov kev cov nyom ntawm peb cheeb tsam ib ntus.Frankly, raws li ib lub teb chaws, peb yuav tsum daws cov teeb meem loj ntawm kev sib raug zoo thiab kev nom kev tswv, yog li peb txhua tus poob lub zog ib yam.Kuv lub hom phiaj tam sim no yog los ntawm kuv Qhov Kev Npaj-rau-hnav thiab haute couture collections tsim ib yam tshiab ntawm hnav, manufacturable elegance. "
Tom qab kawm tiav los ntawm Istanbul Fashion Institute hauv 2014, Akyuz tau kawm tiav qib Master hauv Menswear Design ntawm Marangoni Academy hauv Milan.Nws ua haujlwm rau Ermenegildo Zegna thiab Costume National ua ntej rov qab mus rau Turkey hauv 2016 thiab tshaj tawm nws cov khaub ncaws hnav hauv 2018.
Hauv kev ua yeeb yam thib rau ntawm lub caij, Selen Akyuz tau ua yeeb yaj kiab uas tau tshuaj xyuas ntawm Soho House hauv Istanbul thiab hauv online: "Nws yog ib qho yeeb yaj kiab, yog li nws tsis yog kev ua yeeb yam tiag tiag, tab sis kuv xav tias nws tseem ua haujlwm.Kuj muaj kev xav. "
Raws li kev lag luam me me, Akyuz maj mam tsim cov neeg siv khoom thoob ntiaj teb me me, nrog cov neeg siv khoom tam sim no nyob hauv Asmeskas, Romania thiab Albania. , thiab ua qhov ntsuas ntsuas, "nws hais. "Peb tsim txhua yam ntawm kuv lub rooj noj mov.Tsis muaj ntau lawm.Kuv ua yuav luag txhua yam ntawm tes" - suav nrog ua t-shirts, kaus mom, khoom siv thiab "patch, seem" hnab los txhawb kev xyaum tsim kho ntxiv.
Qhov kev ntsuas qis qis no txuas ntxiv mus rau nws cov neeg koom tes ntau lawm." Hloov chaw ua haujlwm nrog cov tuam txhab loj, kuv tau nrhiav cov neeg tsim khoom me me los txhawb kuv lub hom, tab sis nws nyuaj rau nrhiav cov neeg sib tw tsim nyog.Cov kws txawj siv cov txheej txheem ib txwm nrhiav tau nyuaj - kev txhawb nqa cov neeg ua haujlwm tiam tom ntej txwv.
Gökhan Yavaş kawm tiav los ntawm DEU Fine Arts Textile thiab Fashion Design hauv 2012 thiab kawm ntawm IMA ua ntej tshaj tawm nws tus kheej txoj kev menswear label hauv 2017.Lub hom tam sim no ua haujlwm nrog cov tuam txhab xws li DHL.
Lub caij no, Gökhan Yavaş nthuav tawm cov yeeb yaj kiab luv luv thiab ua yeeb yam - nws thawj zaug hauv peb lub xyoos. "Peb nco nws heev - nws yog lub sijhawm los tham nrog tib neeg dua.Peb xav ua kom ua yeeb yam hauv lub cev vim tias ntawm Instagram, nws nyuaj thiab nyuaj rau kev sib txuas lus.Nws yog ntau dua txog kev sib ntsib thiab hnov ​​​​los ntawm tib neeg ntsej muag, "tus tsim qauv hais.
Lub hom phiaj yog hloov kho nws cov tswv yim tsim khoom. "Peb tau tso tseg siv cov tawv tawv thiab tawv tiag tiag," nws piav qhia tias thawj peb qhov zoo li ntawm cov khoom sau tau raug cobbled ua ke los ntawm cov phuam qhwv caj dab ua ntej sau.Yavaş tseem tab tom yuav koom tes nrog. DHL los tsim lub tsho tiv nag los muag rau ib puag ncig kev siab hlub.
Lub hom phiaj ntawm kev ruaj ntseg tau ua pov thawj nyuaj rau cov hom lag luam, nrog rau thawj qhov teeb meem yog nrhiav ntau cov ntaub npuag los ntawm cov neeg muag khoom. "Koj yuav tsum xaj tsawg kawg 15 meters ntawm cov ntaub los ntawm koj cov neeg muab khoom, thiab qhov ntawd yog qhov kev sib tw loj tshaj plaws rau peb."Qhov kev sib tw thib ob uas lawv ntsib yog qhib lub khw hauv Turkey kom muag cov khaub ncaws hnav, thaum cov neeg yuav khoom hauv zos tsom mus rau Turkish poj niam cov khaub ncaws tsim kev faib tawm.Tseem, thaum lub npe muag los ntawm lawv lub vev xaib thiab cov khw muag khoom thoob ntiaj teb hauv Canada thiab London, lawv lub hom phiaj tom ntej yog Asia - tshwj xeeb yog Kaus Lim Kauslim. thiab Tuam Tshoj.
Wearable art brand Bashaques tau tsim muaj nyob rau hauv 2014 los ntawm Başak Cankeş.Lub hom lag luam muag swimwear thiab kimonos themed nrog nws cov artwork.
"Ib txwm, kuv ua kev sib koom tes ua yeeb yam nrog cov khoom siv kos duab," tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim Başak Cankeş hais rau BoF sai sai tom qab nthuav tawm nws cov ntawv sau tshiab kawg hauv 45-feeb kev tshuaj ntsuam xyuas ntawm Soho House hauv Istanbul.
Lub exhibition qhia zaj dab neeg ntawm nws mus ncig teb chaws Peru thiab Colombia mus ua hauj lwm nrog lawv cov neeg txawj ntse, txais yuav Anatolian qauv thiab cov cim, thiab "nug lawv li cas lawv xav txog Anatolian [prints]". Cov khoom siv tes ua ntau yam ntawm Asian Turkish Anatolia thiab South American lub teb chaws.
Nws hais tias "Txog 60 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom sau tsuas yog ib daim xwb, txhua tus tes-woven los ntawm cov poj niam hauv Peru thiab Anatolia," nws hais.
Cankeş muag rau cov neeg sau duab kos duab hauv tebchaws Turkey thiab xav kom qee cov neeg siv khoom los ua cov khoom khaws cia hauv tsev cia puav pheej los ntawm nws txoj haujlwm, piav qhia tias nws "tsis nyiam ua lub ntiaj teb hom vim tias nws nyuaj ua lub ntiaj teb thiab muaj txiaj ntsig zoo.Kuv tsis xav ua ib qho kev sau ntawm 10 daim uas tsis yog swimsuits lossis kimonos.Nws yog tag nrho lub tswv yim, kev sib sau kos duab uas peb yuav muab tso rau ntawm NFTs thiab.Kuv pom kuv tus kheej ntau dua li tus kws kos duab, thiab Tsis yog tus tsim qauv tsim. "
Karma Collective sawv cev rau cov txuj ci tshiab ntawm Istanbul Moda Academy, tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 2007, muab qib hauv Kev Tsim Qauv, Kev Tsim Kho Khoom Siv thiab Khoom Siv, Kev Tswj Xyuas Zam, thiab Kev Sib Txuas Lus thiab Kev Tshaj Tawm.
"Qhov teeb meem tseem ceeb uas kuv muaj yog huab cua, vim tias nws tau los daus rau ob lub lis piam dhau los, yog li peb kuj muaj teeb meem ntau nrog cov saw hlau thiab cov khoom siv ntaub," Hakalmaz hais rau BoF.She tau tsim cov khoom sau hauv ob qho tib si. lub lis piam rau nws daim ntawv lo Alter Ego, nthuav tawm raws li ib feem ntawm Karma collective, thiab kuj tsim rau lub tsev zam Nocturne.
Hakalmaz tseem tsis tau siv cov kev daws teeb meem los txhawb nws txoj kev tsim khoom, hais tias: "Kuv tsis nyiam siv thev naus laus zis thiab nyob deb ntawm nws ntau li ntau tau vim kuv xav ua cov khoom siv tes ua kom sib txuas nrog yav dhau los."